In my youth, I recall that there were two types of relish for our summer cookouts - a green one for hot dogs and a red one for hamburgers, and each was perfectly suited to its task - make its subject taste its very best. I loved the sweet, simple mustardy taste of hot dog relish with its cucumber crunch ... on hot dogs; and, I adored the complex flavors of hamburger relish comprised of red and green peppers, onion, cucumber, tomatoes, and unusual spices, it complemented the beef so well. I still love hot dog relish which can be obtained under a number of labels, but you can't find real, old-fashioned hamburger relish anywhere. Why? For the life of me I don't know, but I'm a tenacious sort and was determined to experience those flavors of yore this summer. Thankfully, here in the 21st century, we have the internet and can find nearly anything, including a recipe for Old-Fashioned Hamburger Relish, like the kind that Heinz used to make.
This recipe is made over a 24 hour period, so plan accordingly, and it does require the proper sterilization of the ½ pint jars, you just can't skip that step. The jars can be purchased from a hardware or grocery store and you can easily find instructions on the internet for how to sterilize the jars or you could also follow the steps transcribed here in the Mixed Berry Jam post from last year.
Old Fashioned Hamburger Relish
(Makes 4: ½-pint jars)
2 medium cucumbers, peeled, seeded, and chopped (about 2 cups)
1 medium yellow onion, chopped
1 medium sweet green pepper, cored, seeded, and chopped
1 medium sweet red or yellow pepper, cored, seeded, and chopped
1 stalk celery, chopped
2 tablespoons kosher salt
½ teaspoon turmeric
3 cups cold water
1 cinnamon stick
12 whole cloves
2 cups cider vinegar
4 medium-size ripe tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped (about 2 cups)
1 cup sugar
2 teaspoons mustard seeds
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- In a large enamel or stainless steel bowl, mix the cucumbers, peppers, celery, salt, turmeric, and water. Let stand, covered, for 12 hours or overnight, then drain in a strainer, lightly pressing out any excess liquid. Set aside.
- Tie up cinnamon and cloves in a piece of cheesecloth. In a large, heavy, enamel or stainless steel saucepan, bring the spices and vinegar to a boil over moderate heat. Reduce the heat to low and simmer, uncovered, for 15 minutes.
- Add the tomatoes to the vinegar mixture, increase the heat to moderate, and bring the mixture to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and simmer, partially covered, until the tomatoes resemble a purée - about 30 minutes. Add the sugar and mustard seeds, mix, cover, and let stand overnight at room temperature.
- Add the drained vegetables to the tomato mixture and bring to a boil over moderately high heat. Then reduce the heat to low and simmer, uncovered, until most of the liquid has evaporated - 25-30 minutes. Remove the spice bag.
- Ladle relish into 4 hot, sterilized, ½-pint preserving jars, leaving a ¼-½-inch of head space. Wipe the jar rims clean, seal, and process in a boiling water bath for 10 minutes. Label, then let the relish mellow in a cool dry place for at least 3 weeks before using. Will keep for up to a year. Refrigerate after opening.
Is it worth all this effort? The answer is a resounding yes. This may not be exactly what Heinz made but it's equally, if not more, satisfying - first, because I made it myself, and second, because it has no preservatives. Make a batch, you'll be glad you did. What else were you going to do while you're locked inside with your air-conditioning on?
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